Extremely expressive nose with deep white-fruit, herbal and smoky aromas. Enormously concentrated, but very cool and pristine, thanks to the super-racy mineral acidity that gives the finish great power.

Klaus-Peter Keller’s 2020 Morstein is everything one would expect from a great terroir in a great vintage, planted with old vines and crafted by a true master at the top of his game. The stunningly beautiful nose soars from the glass in a blaze of tart orange, pink grapefruit, salty limestone minerality, wild yeasts, dried flowers and a topnote of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is very, very pure, racy and full, with stunning depth in the mid-palate, great mineral drive on the backend, laser-like focus and perfect balance on the very, very long and youthfully complex finish. All this magical wine needs is bottle age! 2035-2100. (Jan/Feb 2022)

The intimations of both chalk dust and saline notes on the nose faintly bring Chablis to mind. The polished palate displays both oyster shell and oyster innards in its meld of chalky, saline, herbaceous and mouthwateringly animal-savory elements, along with a shimmering sense of citrus and mineral interaction. Zesty lemon and piquant kumquat add to the striking persistence a wine suited to setting the tonsils vibrating and milking the salivary glands. (Nov 2021)

The 2020er Morstein Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from 75-year-old vines and low yields (under 30 hl/ha) in one single old Fuder. It offers an aromatic, intense, and very complex nose of herbs, pineapple, grapefruit, mint, ginger, and a hint of camphor. The wine captures one’s attention as it proves hugely intense, compact, and dense on the palate. Notes of lemon and citrus are wrapped into plenty of spices and add to the feeling of razor-sharpness which emerges into the long and tight finish. There is also a light phenolic and powerful presence. This hugely impressive but still very primary dry Riesling will require a couple of years to fully show its potential. There is clear upside potential if it manages to gain finesse over time. 2025-2035+. (Nov 2021)